Rock climbing on Sugarloaf-East Rock wall
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A tall granite block along Highway 50, Sugarloaf features many climbs for many abilities. Some extremely difficult routes have been established here (Grand Illusion 5.13) but goldern era classics are classic for a reason (Harding's Chimney 5.7). Come enjoy the climbing most seasons of the year, Sugarloaf is right around snowline for most of the year and so offers some good spring climbing in the warm sun!
Sugarloaf-East climbs, routes & problems
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Tim Camuti
Sugarloaf-East
Great mix in single pitch and multipitch climbing that is accessible in all seasons. Stay in the sun if the weather is cool, stay in the shade if the weather is hot. Very traditional crag- lots of trad multipitch lines and even the bolted face is lead on … ...
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5.10 The Fracture
Excellent, challenging, 5.7 with varied types of climbing all in one condensed, 3 pitch, route. Chimney to a spicy move from the chimney to a hand crack, then a lieback/ face pitch. the third pitch features a short chimney to an awkward move onto an exposed slab section then a FAT belay cave. Then you crawl thru the summit to a spooky, exposed ledge and a hairy move right to the finish! The descent can be very entertaining as well. It'll be harder when that ancient dead tree finally falls, just after you come off the summit! Lots of different stuff and you'll work for the tick if you are new to leading. Well worth the steep hike in!