Yosemite
Probably the best know climbing destination in the world.
Modern rock climbing virtually started in Yosemite. A lot of the hardest routes in the US up until the 70s for each grade were put up somewhere in Yosemite. Climbing equipment like friends and pitons were brought into the climbing community’s awareness here. Many of the mainstream climbing brands have their roots in Yosemite, often sold from someone’s car.
There are good reasons why Yosemite is one the biggest climbing destinations in the world:
• The Walls – All you need to do is to look at El Captain or Half Dome and realize why Yosemite has special significance in the rock climbing community. With about 3000ft (1km) of climbing on these routes they simply have to be done. This is arguably the best place in the world for big wall climbing.
• The climbing is fantastic – Beautiful cracks just made for hand jamming, delicate face climbs and stunning bouldering there is something for everyone. There is a year or two worth of quality climbing here.
• A vibrant climbing community – Camp Four the hub of the Yosemite climbing community has hundreds of climbers from all over the world regularly staying there. If you want to hang out with trad climbers from everywhere this is a great place to stay.
• Good weather - Spring and Autumn here are usually warm and sunny and not too hot/cold
Food
If you are working to a budget doing your shopping outside of the park is a great option. Otherwise there is a grocery store at the village store or curry village. Both have a reasonable selection of food. If you have more money then here are some of the options
Yosemite Lodge:
"The Cafe" (cafeteria - cheap as it gets), The Mountain Room (moderate priced American food), Mountain Room Bar and Grill.
Yosemite Village:
Degnan's Deli, The Loft (pizza and pasta), burger stand
Curry Village:
Pizza Deck (with bar), cafeteria, taco shop, all-you-can-eat buffet
Probably the best option after that 7 day big wall experience is the Ahwahnee's buffet on a Sunday were you can stuff yourself full of eggs Benedict and recover all the weight you lost on the wall
Cheap climbing accommodation in peak season, in Yosemite, is hard to come by. After your 2 weeks staying in campgrounds you are kicked out and forced to go elsewhere. A lot of people do big wall climbing here so that they can stay for longer. If you are not up for your first big wall experience then be prepared to move on quickly.
If you have money then staying in a lodge is a more comfortable option.
A side note....
Climbers are really only tolerated here. Most of the money is made outside of climbers and I think that most of the park service management would be happier if climbers were not here! This is not the place to have a smoking session, get drunk or speed; the Yosemite cops are well known for giving out tickets and enforcing law and order. Finally ALWAYS PUT ANY FOOD THAT YOU HAVE IN BEAR BOXES. You will not get away with being stupid.
Climbing Gear
Yosemite granite has many pin-scared cracks so a few sets of nuts and offset nuts are essential. When cams are used, they are mostly in the thin to hand size (we'll warn you when bigger gear is needed in the guidebook!). For many of the longer routes, a LARGE number of slings are needed—it is common for pitches to wander. You will want a pair of comfortable climbing shoes for the longer routes and a tighter fitting slipper or velcro shoe for the sport climbing. A helmet is a must for both potential loose rock and dropped gear from climbers above.
Here are a number of easier grade classic climbs that are often the focus of a climber's first week in Yosemite.
Munginella, After Six, Royal Arches, Half Dome Snake Dike, Bishop's Terrace, Nutcracker, Commitment, Higher Spire, Regular Route and the Central Pillar.
For more information on these climbs please go to www.supertopo.com
Finally, make sure at some point you make it to Yosemite. Even if you hate anything that has a crack, Yosemite is just too beautiful to miss!!
A big thanks to Chris McNamara and supertopo for all the help with the information.
For guide books and topos please check out their site
www.supertopo.com
Info
Directions
Air Travel The closest major international airports are Oakland International and San Francisco International which are a 3.5-hour and 4-hour drive to Yosemite, respectively. Of the two, Oakland is preferred because it's less chaotic and 30 minutes closer to Yosemite. Sacramento International and San Jose International are also a 4-hour drive from Yosemite but connects to fewer airports. Fresno Yosemite International Airport is only a 3-hour drive but offers the fewest flights. Since all of these airports are about the same distance to Yosemite, shop around for the best fares. Some climbers also fly into Los Angeles International Airport, which is a 7-hour drive to Yosemite. All these airports offer car rentals.
Train Travel The train is not the fastest way to Yosemite but its kinda cool. From Emeryville (a 20-minute bus ride from San Francisco) take Amtrak to Merced and board the Via Bus to Yosemite. There are three runs in the morning and one at 5:25 p.m. The cost is $20 round trip. From Los Angeles, Amtrak has a bus to Bakersfield that connects with a train to Merced. From there take the Via Bus to Yosemite.
Bus Travel Short of having a car, the bus is the best way to get from a major airport to Yosemite. From Oakland, San Francisco, or Los Angeles take a Greyhound Bus to Merced, CA and then take the Via Bus to Yosemite. Plan a full day of travel if taking the bus. From June to November only you can reach Yosemite from Mammoth by the YARTS bus.
Car Travel There are four state highways that access Yosemite: 120 from the west, 120 from the east (AKA The Tioga Road), 140, and 41. The fastest access from the San Francisco Bay Area is 120. Highway 140 is the best option if coming from Los Angeles or Fresno. Highway 140 is also the lowest elevation road and offers the best winter access if 120 and 41 have chain controls (chains are rarely required on 140). Highway 120 from the east (AKA The Tioga Road) offers the best access from Bishop, Utah, Nevada, and eastern states. However, this road closes after the first major winter storm (usually in November) and doesn't open until the snow melts (usually late May). View a list of opening and closing dates for the Tioga Road/120 since 1980. To access Yosemite from the east in winter, you must get to the west side access roads by driving north through Tahoe or south through Bakersfield.
Rent a car at any airport or major city. International climbers who stay in the United States for more than a month often buy a cheap used car in San Francisco or Los Angeles and sell it (or scrap it) at the end of their trip. To get a cheap car, look in the local papers or www.craigslist.org.
Many people stay in Yosemite without a car. Renting a car is expensive and it's possible to reach most climbs by the free shuttle bus. However, the shuttle does not serve areas west of Camp 4, including: El Capitan, Leaning Tower, Cookie Cliff, and Reeds Pinnacle. To reach these areas without a car you will need to hitchhike or ride a bike.
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Climbing activity
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Kristan Carver 1 day ago
Looking for climbers @
Yosemite, Joshua Tree, Bishop, Tahquitz, Owens River Gorge, Needles
ReplyHey Yall, I'm heading south on a roadtrip. I have some slack in my schedule and would love to hook up with some good floks and climb while I'm in CA. Please call me or text: 509-998-8651. Peace.
Carver
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looking like the valleys gonna be sunny/drying all next week...
- Patrick ODonnell - I can get out of town Thursday evening for a couple of days. What routes where you thinking of??
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Austin McNeely 8 days ago
Climbing & Skydiving
taken @Yosemite
Comment on movie - Msg Austin McNeelyClimbing in Yosemite and Skydiving in Lodi
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Looking for Trad or Alpine partners for climbs in the Sierras or Cascades
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Peter 14 days ago
Looking for climbers @Yosemite, Joshua Tree, Tahoe, Tahquitz, Alabama Hills, The Leap
ReplyLots of time to climb this summer. Sierra? Whitney Portal? Yosemite? Beyond? Let me know.
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Hey, generaly looking for more partners. have learned and honed my trad skills over the last year and have put together a fairly epic yosemite/tuolumne tick list for the season. I lead .9 + and getting better, please do the same. I can follow up to .10+.
- Benny Kong - I'm totally down... I've started trad climbing last year Climb around the same range. Trying to get my SPI through AMGA and need more climbs on my resume. I have taken and Anchors class, Multi-Pitch class and Self Rescue through the BAOAC.
- bud miller - Feaking awsome. It sucks there is so much time left untill snow melts, but in the mean time we should meet up and climb indoor/local crags. budmiller77@gmail.com.
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Looking to climb in Yosemite, Tahoe, or up by Shasta. Game for easy trad (lead 5.6/7 follow 5.8ish) or an alpine summit (II/III 5.6 or less). The latter is probably what I'll do if I can't find anyone to join me.. so hollar folks.
- Igor - I'm interested in getting out to Yosemite or Tahoe areas. Never been there))) usually free on weekends, contact me!
- zeth - free just about all the time. call or text me 510 209 0117 i'm down for yosemite area possibly tahoe area. know tahoe area pretty well yosemite so so. i'm also willing to lead 5.8 -5.12 ish if you wanna follow or jug
- Patrick ODonnell - I am all so in for something in Yosemite.... drop me a line if you or someone might need a partner. Cheers, Patrick 408-507-2932 My mountain Project listing has more info about me (Patrick ODonnell)
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I just located here from Boulder Colorado. I am looking for a partner to train with indoors and outdoors. I have 25+ years climbing and guiding. Really want to get back to some walls and the High Serra routes.
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Hi, I'm looking for someone to climb the Nose or similar with in Autumn 2010. Based in the UK and have 3 weeks available. I'm 35, never been big wall climbing but done lots of multi-pitch up to 5.10b/c
- Chris Weiss - Also looking at doing a el cap route in spring or fall. Nose or Salathe. No big wall experience but lots of muti-pitch trad. Would like to knock out Washington Col S. Face first.
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i am going to be staying at camp 4 from wednesday to friday, looking for someone to climb with if possible or to boulder, will only have shoes and harness with me, lead 5.8 trad. 415-902-6237
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"Captain Kirk is climbing the mountain; why is he climbing that mountain?"
- Aaron E - I read somewhere that Shatners' close-ups were filmed in the parking lot, with the mountain in the background. His stunt double did the rest.
- Kevin - OMG.... I think I want to kill the person who made this.... I don't want to associate Yosemite with Captain Kirks climbing mountains. arrgggg
- Susan - OK... now that is a very silly little clip...
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Multi-dimensional persona. VC by day. Cliff/Mountain Rescue and Rescue Diver other times. Climbing, skiing, cycling, sailing, scuba diving, rafting, golf, poker and reading as hobbies. Enjoy traveling countries when not jet-lagged. Lead and follow 5.9s.
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I have December 1st and 2nd off and I am looking to get some cragging in down in the Valley. I don't have a car, but I do have a rack and camping gear. It is a little cold for longwer routes, but I would love to get on some 10s at lower elevation.
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Fred Sites 121 days ago
Looking for climbers @Yosemite, Bishop, Castle Rock State Park, Mt Diablo, Indian Rock, Grizzly Peak
ReplyI'm a student in Emeryville looking to get outside more... I have a crash pad, a car, and the book. I climb v4/5 in the gym... 2/3ish outside. I'll climb with people at any level. give me a call or text 603 660 6353
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Hey there, my name is Austin. Just wanted to try this site out and find if anyone, novice / intermediate / advanced climbers would like to head to Yosemite valley for some bouldering for a few days during a week - wed/thursday. I have 3 pads!
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Madeline Masteller 128 days ago
climbing Sat 07 Nov @Yosemite
Comment/Reply - Msg Madeline MastellerI'm dying to get outside again before it gets too cold. Anyone interested in going to Yosemite or elsewhere Nov 7, 14, or 21 weekends? I don't lead trad, as I am a sportclimber at heart, but can certainly clean for anyone who wants a fun partner.
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Trad climber age 50. Used to do UK E5/6. Still climb to UK E2. Thinking of maybe NW face Half dome or similar in 2010. Need someone to lead up to this with. Also Big wall weekend seminar in Yosemite early 2010. Anyone interested in these ideas?
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Ryan Riggins 133 days ago
Looking for climbers @Yosemite, Joshua Tree, Tahoe, The Leap, Mt Diablo, Indian Rock
ReplyLooking for an experienced outdoor climber who would be willing to teach someone who is still trying to find their place in outdoor climbing.
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Randy Paddy 162 days ago
Looking for climbers @Yosemite, G-Rocks, Tahoe, Castle Rock State Park, Tuolumne
ReplyNew to the bay area. Relocated from SA. Looking for partners who want to climb outside over weekends. Anywhere in Northern California. I prefer top rope climbing (do not have rope or any lead climb gear yet), have all the other essentials.
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Sarah Kate Selling 172 days ago
Looking for climbers @Yosemite, Castle Rock State Park, The Leap, Pinnacles, Sierras, Tuolumne
ReplyI just moved to Palo Alto and I'm looking for experienced partners who want to climb outside, particularly in places like Yosemite, the Needles, and the Tahoe area. I like all types of climbing, but long trad routes are my favorite.
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luke grecki 178 days ago
Looking for climbers @Yosemite, Bishop, Tahoe, Holcomb, Castle Rock State Park, The Leap
Replyim a grad student living in davis looking for a climbing partner psyched on climbing routes on the weekends. i can climb .11 sport, am working on climbing .12, and have followed .10 trad. i cant lead trad but would love to learn.
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Going to Yosemite(Camp 4) this coming weekend. I think I have room in my car if others would like to join. I am going with 2 in my car and meeting others there I will be leaving early saturday morning and returning home sometime monday.
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Thomas and Alexander Huber, risk takers in the extreme, rank as two of the best mountain climbers of our time. Now the two Huber brothers have set out to break the record in speed climbing at the wall of all walls, the 1,000 foot vertical "Nose" of El Capitan in Yosemite Valley, California.
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Probably the best known boulder problem in the world and a very very hard one!!
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Dean Potters Crazy Ascent....
- Mateusz Loskot - The movie is great and it's even more great that Dean is pointing (see 6:25 min) one of important and sad issue about climbing and climbers - some of members of our community are just dirty pigs leaving trash like cans and plastic bottles in one of the most beautiful wall. Ignorance is everywhere, even high and over there.
