Yosemite
Probably the best know climbing destination in the world.
Modern rock climbing virtually started in Yosemite. A lot of the hardest routes in the US up until the 70s for each grade were put up somewhere in Yosemite. Climbing equipment like friends and pitons were brought into the climbing community’s awareness here. Many of the mainstream climbing brands have their roots in Yosemite, often sold from someone’s car.
There are good reasons why Yosemite is one the biggest climbing destinations in the world:
• The Walls – All you need to do is to look at El Captain or Half Dome and realize why Yosemite has special significance in the rock climbing community. With about 3000ft (1km) of climbing on these routes they simply have to be done. This is arguably the best place in the world for big wall climbing.
• The climbing is fantastic – Beautiful cracks just made for hand jamming, delicate face climbs and stunning bouldering there is something for everyone. There is a year or two worth of quality climbing here.
• A vibrant climbing community – Camp Four the hub of the Yosemite climbing community has hundreds of climbers from all over the world regularly staying there. If you want to hang out with trad climbers from everywhere this is a great place to stay.
• Good weather - Spring and Autumn here are usually warm and sunny and not too hot/cold
Food
If you are working to a budget doing your shopping outside of the park is a great option. Otherwise there is a grocery store at the village store or curry village. Both have a reasonable selection of food. If you have more money then here are some of the options
Yosemite Lodge:
"The Cafe" (cafeteria - cheap as it gets), The Mountain Room (moderate priced American food), Mountain Room Bar and Grill.
Yosemite Village:
Degnan's Deli, The Loft (pizza and pasta), burger stand
Curry Village:
Pizza Deck (with bar), cafeteria, taco shop, all-you-can-eat buffet
Probably the best option after that 7 day big wall experience is the Ahwahnee's buffet on a Sunday were you can stuff yourself full of eggs Benedict and recover all the weight you lost on the wall
Cheap climbing accommodation in peak season, in Yosemite, is hard to come by. After your 2 weeks staying in campgrounds you are kicked out and forced to go elsewhere. A lot of people do big wall climbing here so that they can stay for longer. If you are not up for your first big wall experience then be prepared to move on quickly.
If you have money then staying in a lodge is a more comfortable option.
A side note....
Climbers are really only tolerated here. Most of the money is made outside of climbers and I think that most of the park service management would be happier if climbers were not here! This is not the place to have a smoking session, get drunk or speed; the Yosemite cops are well known for giving out tickets and enforcing law and order. Finally ALWAYS PUT ANY FOOD THAT YOU HAVE IN BEAR BOXES. You will not get away with being stupid.
Climbing Gear
Yosemite granite has many pin-scared cracks so a few sets of nuts and offset nuts are essential. When cams are used, they are mostly in the thin to hand size (we'll warn you when bigger gear is needed in the guidebook!). For many of the longer routes, a LARGE number of slings are needed—it is common for pitches to wander. You will want a pair of comfortable climbing shoes for the longer routes and a tighter fitting slipper or velcro shoe for the sport climbing. A helmet is a must for both potential loose rock and dropped gear from climbers above.
Here are a number of easier grade classic climbs that are often the focus of a climber's first week in Yosemite.
Munginella, After Six, Royal Arches, Half Dome Snake Dike, Bishop's Terrace, Nutcracker, Commitment, Higher Spire, Regular Route and the Central Pillar.
For more information on these climbs please go to www.supertopo.com
Finally, make sure at some point you make it to Yosemite. Even if you hate anything that has a crack, Yosemite is just too beautiful to miss!!
A big thanks to Chris McNamara and supertopo for all the help with the information.
For guide books and topos please check out their site
www.supertopo.com
Info
Directions
Air Travel The closest major international airports are Oakland International and San Francisco International which are a 3.5-hour and 4-hour drive to Yosemite, respectively. Of the two, Oakland is preferred because it's less chaotic and 30 minutes closer to Yosemite. Sacramento International and San Jose International are also a 4-hour drive from Yosemite but connects to fewer airports. Fresno Yosemite International Airport is only a 3-hour drive but offers the fewest flights. Since all of these airports are about the same distance to Yosemite, shop around for the best fares. Some climbers also fly into Los Angeles International Airport, which is a 7-hour drive to Yosemite. All these airports offer car rentals.
Train Travel The train is not the fastest way to Yosemite but its kinda cool. From Emeryville (a 20-minute bus ride from San Francisco) take Amtrak to Merced and board the Via Bus to Yosemite. There are three runs in the morning and one at 5:25 p.m. The cost is $20 round trip. From Los Angeles, Amtrak has a bus to Bakersfield that connects with a train to Merced. From there take the Via Bus to Yosemite.
Bus Travel Short of having a car, the bus is the best way to get from a major airport to Yosemite. From Oakland, San Francisco, or Los Angeles take a Greyhound Bus to Merced, CA and then take the Via Bus to Yosemite. Plan a full day of travel if taking the bus. From June to November only you can reach Yosemite from Mammoth by the YARTS bus.
Car Travel There are four state highways that access Yosemite: 120 from the west, 120 from the east (AKA The Tioga Road), 140, and 41. The fastest access from the San Francisco Bay Area is 120. Highway 140 is the best option if coming from Los Angeles or Fresno. Highway 140 is also the lowest elevation road and offers the best winter access if 120 and 41 have chain controls (chains are rarely required on 140). Highway 120 from the east (AKA The Tioga Road) offers the best access from Bishop, Utah, Nevada, and eastern states. However, this road closes after the first major winter storm (usually in November) and doesn't open until the snow melts (usually late May). View a list of opening and closing dates for the Tioga Road/120 since 1980. To access Yosemite from the east in winter, you must get to the west side access roads by driving north through Tahoe or south through Bakersfield.
Rent a car at any airport or major city. International climbers who stay in the United States for more than a month often buy a cheap used car in San Francisco or Los Angeles and sell it (or scrap it) at the end of their trip. To get a cheap car, look in the local papers or www.craigslist.org.
Many people stay in Yosemite without a car. Renting a car is expensive and it's possible to reach most climbs by the free shuttle bus. However, the shuttle does not serve areas west of Camp 4, including: El Capitan, Leaning Tower, Cookie Cliff, and Reeds Pinnacle. To reach these areas without a car you will need to hitchhike or ride a bike.
504 have climbed @ Yosemite
See all people who climb @ Yosemite
Authority sites on Yosemite
=> Supertopo
Climbing activity
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Searching a ride from the Valley to San Fransisco or somewhere to the West (Merced, Berkeley...)
Camp 4 - site 22
Send me an email: duermeier AT uni-kassel.de
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I will be in Yosemite from Sep 10-14th. I can lead 5.9 trad/5.10+ sport and follow harder. I have a full rack, aiders, ascenders, etc. I would like to get on some of the classic multi-pitch routes. I also don't mind going up to TM.
- George - Hi, Arriving on the 11th and on my own for 1st wk. Looking to climb in TM or the valley. camped in TM for first 3 days. Have all the kit. send me your mobile and I'll get in touch if you like. Cheers, Geo.
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Will be climbing in Yosemite for all of October, looking for a partner. Can sport lead steady 11's and Indian Creek 11's on Trad.
- Oriol RIBAS - Hi Dan, altough I don't climb as hard as 11 in the valley, if you wish we can discuss about some climbs we could do together. I'm interested in long routes and I can climb fast in the 9 and 10 a and b. I have plenty of time.
- Daniel Swansinger - Hey Oriol, thanks for replying. That sounds great to me. I haven't done a ton on granite, mostly sandstone, so 9's and 10's sound cool. I won't be in the Valley for a few weeks but would love to meet up and throw down with you. Dan
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shae rocco 13 days ago
Looking for climbers @
Yosemite, Castle Rock State Park, The Leap, Mt Diablo, Tuolumne, Cragmont
ReplyWant to climb multi-pitches, ambitious for big walls and need a partner w/same goals. You-capable of leading or feel confident learning. Me- used to sport 5.10's solid, getting back into it, learning trad placement now. New to the area so give a shout!
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Gonna be in the valley 5/6th of september and staying there for 7-10 days. Psyched on the classics, East buttress of El Cap etc, climbing 5.9-5.10ish, did a wall last year and stoked to do another if you had a pig/ledge...
- George - Coming over from London on 11th and will be in Tuolumne from 12th. My partner is coming out a week later but will be looking for partners in that first week.
- Aaron Eveland - I might be coming down 10-13th of Sep. I have a good size rack, but no haul bag. Let me know if you need partner.
- Laurence Elliott - sorry guys not gonna be there any more... good luck!
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Just started climbing this summer and Im hanging out in the valley for awhile. Looking to top rope some easy stuff with someone who knows how to set protection. I'll bring beer for afterwards and I'm willing to drive up to Tuolumne! Call/text 503-423-7012
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So my buddy and I are trying to get to Yos by 10am on Thursday (for a backpacking trip, actually), but is anyone going up who could give us a lift? We'll get your gas and chat away about the awesomeness of Camp 4 for the whole drive if you like.
Elena
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HI i am new to Seattle i just moved here and want to climb i want to meet new and exciting friends to hang out with and go find places to climb
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David Friend 20 days ago
Looking for climbers @Yosemite, Castle Rock State Park, The Leap, Pinnacles, Donner
ReplyLooking for chill sport/trad partner who's comfortable in 5.10 range (projecting 11s) to get out on the weekends. I want to push my limits on sport; less ambitious on trad, but enjoy scenic multi-pitch. I’m not a novice, but still learn every time I climb
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I just moved to the bay!
- Victor - Let's climb!
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fgdbfn
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Summited El Cap: Nose Route on July 9, 5:10pm Pacific Time. Climb time of 101.10 Hours
- Kevin - Sick mate!! Well done
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Doing WFR at Yosemite till August 22nd, looking to stay around for a week to climb. Climb 5'9 to 5'10 comfortably, still new to leading sport (5'7- 5'9)... make a great belay slave for any trad/multi-pitch:) Have rope, bit of gear, & eager to climb!
- Oriol RIBAS - Hi Meghan, I'll be in the valley on Thursday 5th till Monday. I could be back at the valley for some climbs on 23rd. Let me know what are your plans. Bye Oriol
- Meghan - Wonderful! Probably won't be on the internet much, give me a call if you are interested in heading back to the area on the 23rd to climb 651-788-5064
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Looking for an experienced partner to climb this summer & fall 2010 in Yosemite and Sequoia/Kings CA. Routes like.... -E.Butt of El Cap. -Reg.Route Fairview. -Mt. Conness. -Mathes Crest. & multipitch trad. routes on Moro Rock and Chimney Rocks (SEKI).
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janet suzie yoon 33 days ago
Looking for climbers @Yosemite, Tahoe, Castle Rock State Park, The Leap, Mt Diablo, Pinnacles
ReplyLooking to sport climb outdoors during the weekday. I feel comfortable leading 10s. I'm from SF, but I have a car and am willing to drive far for multiday climbing/camping trips.
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Looking for weekday (M-Th) climbing partner for trad & aid routes in YV & eastern Sierra back-country Grade IV-V, 5.8-9, A0-3. Have car, $ for gas & gear.
- Oriol RIBAS - Hi Lewis, that could work for me.
- nadav oakes - Hi, Are you still looking for a partner? I am climbing around the sierras and TM, have flexible schedule. 786-683-8038 Nadav
- Jason - still looking for weekday partners? i'm available. can do weekday overnight trips too
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luke grecki 37 days ago
Looking for climbers @Yosemite, ninety foot wall, Tahoe, Castle Rock State Park, The Leap, Mt Diablo
ReplyUC Davis grad student trying to get outside as often as possible. Any day except wednesday works. Can lead sport 11s but not trad. Have sport gear and rope, but no car. Lets play outside in the sun.
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matthias 47 days ago
Looking for climbers @Yosemite, Tahoe, Castle Rock State Park, The Leap, CRG, Jenner
ReplyWeekend trips, maybe camping. Interested in all climbing outdoors. Let me know.
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Jason 49 days ago
Looking for climbers @Yosemite, Joshua Tree, Bishop, Tahoe, Castle Rock State Park, Alabama Hills
Replyi want to do more multi-pitch trad. looking for a good leader. i only follow at this point.
looking for top rope partners too.
i have all pro except for trad gear.
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Lost my partner for the RNF of Half Dome. I'm keen on doing it without a pig, carry light, on a weekday and mostly free/french free. I've got all the gear, ropes, etc. Call if you're interested.
415-triple nine-3922
Cheers,
Shino
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Austin McNeely 184 days ago
Climbing & Skydiving
taken @Yosemite
Comment on movie - Msg Austin McNeelyClimbing in Yosemite and Skydiving in Lodi
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"Captain Kirk is climbing the mountain; why is he climbing that mountain?"
- Aaron E - I read somewhere that Shatners' close-ups were filmed in the parking lot, with the mountain in the background. His stunt double did the rest.
- Kevin - OMG.... I think I want to kill the person who made this.... I don't want to associate Yosemite with Captain Kirks climbing mountains. arrgggg
- Susan - OK... now that is a very silly little clip...
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Thomas and Alexander Huber, risk takers in the extreme, rank as two of the best mountain climbers of our time. Now the two Huber brothers have set out to break the record in speed climbing at the wall of all walls, the 1,000 foot vertical "Nose" of El Capitan in Yosemite Valley, California.
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Probably the best known boulder problem in the world and a very very hard one!!
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Dean Potters Crazy Ascent....
- Mateusz Loskot - The movie is great and it's even more great that Dean is pointing (see 6:25 min) one of important and sad issue about climbing and climbers - some of members of our community are just dirty pigs leaving trash like cans and plastic bottles in one of the most beautiful wall. Ignorance is everywhere, even high and over there.
